Fieldtrips |
Quanzhou Heritage Study Tour, 10-14 July 2010 |
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The Department of Anthropology organized a heritage study tour to Quanzhou, Fujian on July 10-14, 2010. Led by Prof. Tan Chee-Beng and assisted by alumus Miss Yip Ping, the group comprised 24 teachers, doctoral, M.Phil. and MA students as well as some postgraduate alumni. CHEE Wai-chi, PANG Leo and ZHOU Tao describe their impression of the study tour as follows. For photos taken by T. W. Lum, visit:
http://flickr.com/gp/lumtinwan/XX78Hv
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Quanzhou Heritage Study Tour (July 10-14)
This Quanzhou Heritage Study Tour is best described as an intensive and comprehensive Anthropology seminar in moving classrooms with a group of experts with diverse interests in different aspects of this ancient city. There was no structured lecture, no class timetable, but the intellectual exchanges just came naturally and spontaneously. The "seminar" venues could be virtually everywhere and the topics unlimited. We discussed on the coach, at dinner table, at tourist attractions, or as we enjoyed tea (of course the famous Anxi Tieguanyin) at a tea house converted from an ancient house. The topics varied from architecture, to food, to history, to globalization, to culture…
To name just a few examples, at the Kaiyuan Temple, Mr Ng Chi Wo, our Department alumnus from the Antiquities and Monuments Office and an expert in rural architecture, talked about the traditional Chinese architecture taking the advantage of the illustrations right at the spot. Our Ph.D. candidate Luo Pan, who did her M.Phil. fieldwork in Hui'an, told us about the Hui'an women who are well-known for their unique costume and distinct marriage tradition of buluojia (不落家) (the woman does not live with her husband until they have a child) while we visited the walled city of Chongwu. Luo Pan is completing her Ph.D. dissertation on the urbanization and cultural heritage of Quanzhou. We enjoyed her description about the changes in recent years as we walked briskly through the busy streets or strolled leisurely along the old alleys. Our alumnus, Dr. Ding Yuling, who is now the Chief Curator of the Quanzhou Maritime Museum, showed us around the museum and drew our attention to the best highlights. Professor Tan Chee-Beng, who led our study tour, revisited his informants at the Overseas Chinese Farm (huaqiao nongchang) in Nanshan where there is a community of Balinese-speaking guiqiao (Returned Overseas Chinese) from Indonesia. There we enjoyed the Indonesian cuisine and listened to the stories of the Returned Overseas Chinese. We were also all invited by the Quanzhou government to participate in the China Maritime Day celebration.
There were many other opportunities to discuss with teachers, alumni and fellow students on various topics, which has enabled me to appreciate and understand, from different perspectives, this ancient city and historically very important port which Marco Polo described as the world’s busiest port.
CHEE Wai-chi
Ph.D. Candidate
Department of Anthropology
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泉州文化遺產考察之旅
夏蟬聲中，在陳志明教授的帶領下，人類系一眾老師、研究生和系友共二十多人來到了素有海上絲綢之路起點之稱的泉州。裝扮成鄭和或各國大使的高甲戲演員為泉州主辦的第六屆中國航海日拉開了序幕，同時也是我們泉州考察之旅一個別開生面的開始。
在接持單位海上交通史博物館的精心安排下，我們參加了中外古代海圖展的開幕儀式和學術會議；學者們獨特的見解令我們對地圖繪製史有進一步的認識。在籌備中的宗教石刻展廳裏，丁毓玲館長(也是本系的博士畢業生)引導我們從一塊元代的墓碑中，找出佛教、道教、基督教等不同的宗教元素。夜遊天后宮更是別有一番風味。在開元寺里，源自古印度教妙音鳥傳說的飛天斗拱讓我們嘖嘖稱奇，而前市長從紅衛兵手中搶救宗教文物的那段歷史更令我們動容。
我們還走訪了被陳志明教授稱為峇里村的雙陽華僑農場南山區。在一家不起眼的餐廳裡，身為歸僑第二代的廚娘亞珍端出了一盤地地道道的峇里菜。沒想到受到旅遊業和全球化衝擊、正漸漸消失的傳統峇里菜，竟會見於中國東南沿海地區。
夜晚，海交館的研究員、也是本系博士生的羅攀帶著我們在中山南路的大街小巷漫步，尋找以往聚寶街的繁華風光。我們在由李氏宗祠改成的茶館聽南音，並和旁邊的街坊有一句沒一句地閒聊。在閩南民宅的古厝茶館，我們細細品嚐鐵觀音，搖著大蒲扇如回到以前。
考察結束了，但土筍涷的嫩Q、鐵觀音的醇香、峇里菜的香辣，如在口中；崇武咸咸的海風、南音的幽婉醉人、惠安女的腰鼓，猶繞耳邊……
葉蘋
香港中文大學
2006年碩士班畢業生 |
泉州歷史文化考察之旅
東海之濱，有一座泉州古城，它是海上絲綢之路的起點，宋元時期，成為全球文化、經濟最為繁盛的城市之一。2010年7月10日至14日，正值泉州舉辦第六屆中國航海日之際，人類學系師生在泉州市政府和海交博物館的盛情邀請下，對泉州歷史文化進行了一番短期考察。
在關帝廟，我們聆聽系裡的博士生羅攀講述2003年SARS期間泉州市民進行關帝巡游以潔淨社區的儀式場景。在天后宮，我們感知海峽兩岸通過共同的民間信仰，衝破政治藩籬而進行的廣泛交流。在開元佛寺，導遊繪聲繪色地為我們述說文革時期保護寺院文物驚心動魄的場面。在南門外萬山峰上的草庵內，我們觀賞了全國僅存的摩尼教石刻光佛，而當地人卻把它作為佛陀來供奉。在靈山聖地的陳埭丁氏墓塚，我們認識了漢族的宗族文化是如何與伊斯蘭教文化合二為一。在海外交通博物館裡，本系畢業的丁毓玲博士為我們介紹了珍貴的景教碑文，並引領我們從中尋找歷史。
除此之外，我們也嘗試融入當地文化，體驗當地人的生活。我們在曲苑裡欣賞獨具特色的南音，在古厝茶莊裡學習泡茶的技藝，在木偶店內瞭解木偶的製作工藝。在蔡氏古居群落，我們被老人淵博的古建知識以及介紹時的那份自豪感所深深打動。考察中最為有趣的莫過於去到陳志明老師的田野點雙陽華僑農場南山區的巴厘村”。我們在那裡受到熱情款待，還品嚐了正宗的巴厘美食。曾經因格爾茨的著作而遐想著去巴厘島遊玩，如今未出國門卻可以真真切切地近距離接觸巴厘移民。
泉州考察之旅正因為有系裡的師生在當地做研究，使得作為一個外來人的我短時間內能夠深入瞭解泉州的歷史與文化，同時也加深了對人類學中“多元性”的感知和理解。
周濤
香港中文大學人類學系
碩士研究生
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Quanzhou Heritage Study Tour (July 10th-July 14th):
Globalisation before the Jet Age
Standing on a cliff overlooking the Taiwan Strait at Hui'an, smelling the fresh sea breeze, I could not help but be reminded that globalization began, not with jets and computers, but with boats, camels and horses. Indeed, we were in Quanzhou as guests to attend the festivities celebrating China Maritime Day 2010 in Quanzhou.
Given its history as one of China's major trading ports, it is not surprising to find that there is also a mixture of different architectural styles in Quanzhou. On the first night of the trip we toured the facade of the Quanzhou Mosque, which was originally built during the Song Dynasty. There were also examples of different architectural influences in the Tomb of the Muslim saints with its Islamic arches and Chinese facade. In fact I saw many buildings, including the Quanzhou Maritime Museum, which had Islamic arches.
We attended the festivities for 2010 China Maritime Day on July 11th as guests of the Quanzhou government. The day began with the official China Maritime Day opening ceremony at the stadium. Following lunch we attended a seminar on China's Maritime history at the Quanzhou Maritime Museum, the theme was China's world cartography, coinciding with the museum's latest exhibition. We concluded the day's festivities with a guided tour through the Maritime Museum that illustrated the rich, diverse heritage of Quanzhou. We saw Islamic, Hindu, Buddhist and Christian exhibits.
A personal highlight of the trip was the visit to an Overseas Chinese Farm (Huaqiao Nongchang), populated by Balinese Chinese who had returned to China in 1960, for lunch. We shared a Balinese meal featuring spice roasted fish in banana leaf, pigs' blood with pig skin (the dish is called tum), excellent pork – roasted belly and caramelised satays, turmeric rice and a fantastic Gado Gado. This was a good example of deterritorialization and reterritorization, which I learned about when I took Globalisation and Culture.
The Heritage Study Tour to Quanzhou was a good opportunity to reflect on some of the things that I learned in the MA programme. Indeed, it confirmed the idea that globalization is not just a recent phenomenon, but something that has been occurring since ancient times.
PANG Leo
MA Student
Depatment of Anthropology
The Chinese University of Hong Kong
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